Ring Battery Doorbell 2K
Built-in rechargeable battery that charges over USB-C (per Ring's install guide) — no wiring needed. Mount the bracket, hook it on, done. It can also connect to existing doorbell wires (8–24 VAC per Ring).
Weekend project · Smart home
Install a Ring video doorbell with your cordless drill.
If you can drill a straight hole, you can do this. Here's exactly which bit to use on your siding, how to make clean pilot holes, and how to handle doorbell wiring safely — breaker off first, always. You've got this.
TimeAbout an hour for most installs
SkillBeginner (battery) · confident beginner (wired)
Main toolCordless drill/driver
PowerBattery, or existing low-voltage doorbell wiring
Instructions summarize Ring's own help articles (linked below). Your model's manual is the final word.
Battery or wired: which install are you doing?
Battery models need no wiring at all — just a bracket and a few screws. Most people start here. Wired models run off the low-voltage doorbell wiring many homes already have, so you never recharge anything, but you'll spend ten extra minutes at the breaker and the transformer.
Ring renamed several doorbells in August 2026 (for example, "Battery Doorbell (2nd Gen)" is now "Battery Doorbell 2K"). Boxes and some listings may still show the old names — it's the same hardware. Ring's name-change list ↗
Ring Battery Doorbell 2K Plus
Same no-wiring install, with the option to hardwire to an existing chime later (8–24 VAC per Ring).
Ring Battery Doorbell 4K Pro
The 4K-resolution model in Ring's battery line (formerly Battery Doorbell Pro (2nd Gen)). Still a bracket-and-screws install.
Ring Wired Doorbell 2K
Needs existing doorbell wiring (Ring lists a 12–24 VAC transformer for this model). No battery to recharge.
Ring Wired Doorbell 2K Plus
Hardwired; Ring lists a 16–24 VAC, 10–40 VA transformer. Uses the included Chime Kit Mini or a bypassed chime — see Ring's guide.
Ring Wired Doorbell 4K Pro
Ring's 4K wired doorbell; Ring lists a 16–24 VAC, 10–40 VA transformer. Formerly Wired Doorbell Pro (3rd Gen).
Transformer ranges from Ring's hardwiring guidelines. We don't list prices or features we haven't confirmed — tap through for today's details.
Tools you'll need
- Cordless drill/driver with a clutch — any of our compared drills is plenty. For brick or concrete, a drill with a hammer mode makes life much easier.
- 1/4" (6 mm) masonry bit for stucco, brick or concrete — the size Ring specifies for its included anchors.
- Small wood/twist bit for pilot holes in wood or vinyl siding.
- Phillips #2 driver bit (or screwdriver), torpedo level, pencil and painter's tape.
- For wired installs: non-contact voltage tester, wire stripper, and the wire nuts Ring includes.
- Safety glasses — masonry dust and chips fly. A stable ladder or step stool if your spot is high.
Masonry vs. wood siding: pick the right bit
| Surface | Bit | Drill setting | Tips |
|---|---|---|---|
| Wood siding or trim | Small twist or brad-point bit, a little narrower than the screw's threaded core | Drill mode — no hammer | Screws bite straight into the wood; the pilot hole just stops splitting, especially near board ends. |
| Vinyl siding | Small twist bit for the pilot | Drill mode | Mount to a flat, solid surface (trim or a siding mounting block) so the bracket sits flat. Don't crank the screws tight enough to dimple the vinyl. |
| Stucco | 1/4" (6 mm) masonry bit (Ring's size) | Hammer mode if your drill has it, moderate speed | Use the included wall anchors. Stucco is brittle on the surface — start slow so it doesn't chip. |
| Brick or block | 1/4" (6 mm) masonry bit | Hammer mode, steady pressure | Mortar joints drill faster and are easier to patch if you ever move it. Use the included anchors. |
| Concrete | 1/4" (6 mm) masonry bit | Hammer mode; back the bit out every few seconds to clear dust | Use the included anchors. A regular drill/driver will struggle — a hammer drill makes this easy. |
Masonry bit size from Ring's battery doorbell install guide ↗. Pilot-hole sizing for wood is general carpentry practice: test on a scrap if you're unsure.
Pilot hole pro tips: mark depth with a tape flag on the bit · start slow so the tip doesn't wander, then speed up · keep the drill square to the wall · on masonry, pull the bit out every few seconds to clear dust · blow or vacuum dust out of the hole before tapping in the anchor.
Install a battery Ring doorbell
Charge and set up first
Charge the battery fully (Ring's Battery Doorbell 2K charges over USB-C), download the Ring app and run setup before you climb a ladder or start drilling. It's much easier at the kitchen table.
Pick the spot
Next to the door, on a flat surface, where the camera sees faces and the porch. Your manual gives Ring's recommended mounting height for your model.
Mark the holes
Hold the mounting bracket in place, check it with a small level, and mark the screw holes with a pencil. On smooth or glossy surfaces, put painter's tape down first so the bit doesn't skate.
Drill pilot holes
Choose your bit from the siding table above. Wrap a flag of tape on the bit to mark the depth (anchor length plus a little). Drill straight in, square to the wall. For masonry, tap in the included anchors until flush.
Screw on the bracket
Drive the included screws with your drill on a low clutch setting — stop when the bracket is snug and flat. Over-tightening can crack anchors or warp the bracket.
Hook on the doorbell
Hook the doorbell over the bracket and press until it clicks (battery models), then press the button and check the live view in the app.
Install a wired Ring doorbell
⚡ Electrical safety first. Turn off power at the breaker before touching any doorbell wires — and if you aren't sure which breaker, turn off the main. Doorbell button wires are low voltage, but the transformer that feeds them is connected to your home's 120 V wiring: never open a junction box or touch the transformer's line side unless you've confirmed it's dead with a tester. Never connect a Ring doorbell directly to line voltage. If you find damaged or unsafe wiring, or you're unsure or uncomfortable at any point, stop and call a licensed electrician — Ring says the same, and some areas require permits or professional installation for electrical work.
Transformer ranges Ring lists (check the label on your transformer):
| Model | Transformer Ring lists |
|---|---|
| Battery Doorbell 2K / 2K Plus / 4K Pro (connected to existing wiring) | 8–24 VAC |
| Wired Doorbell 2K | 12–24 VAC |
| Wired Doorbell 2K Plus, Wired Doorbell 4K Pro | 16–24 VAC, 10–40 VA |
From Ring: Guidelines for hardwiring your video doorbell ↗ · Chime steps: Ring: Installing Wired Doorbell 2K Plus ↗
Turn off the power at the breaker
Switch off the breaker that feeds your doorbell transformer. If you're not sure which one it is, turn off the main breaker — that's Ring's own advice. Press the doorbell: if the chime stays silent, the circuit is off.
Check the transformer rating
Your doorbell transformer is usually near the electrical panel, in the attic, or by the chime. Its label shows its output (for example 16 V AC and its VA rating). Compare it with the table above. If it's outside your model's range, use a Ring-approved power option or call an electrician.
Remove the old button and label the wires
Unscrew the old button and gently pull the two thin wires out. Tape them to the wall so they can't slip back into the hole. Doorbell button wires aren't polarity-specific, so either wire can go to either terminal.
Handle the chime the way your model needs
Some Ring wired models need the included Chime Kit Mini or a bypassed chime (Ring's Wired Doorbell 2K Plus guide shows how — connect Front and Trans together with a wire nut). Follow the steps for your exact model.
Mount the bracket over the wires
Feed the wires through the bracket, level it, mark, drill pilot holes (see the siding table), add anchors on masonry, then drive the screws snug.
Connect the wires and hang the doorbell
Attach the wires to the doorbell terminals (some models use the included fork connectors and wire nuts). Tighten the terminal screws firmly, tuck the wires in, and mount the doorbell on the bracket.
Power on and test
Restore power at the breaker, press the button, and check the chime and the app's live view. Then add the faceplate and security screw if your model has one.
If something's not right
- Bracket won't sit flat: the wall isn't flat (common on lap siding) — Ring sells wedge and corner mounts, or mount to the door trim.
- Bit is smoking or not cutting on brick: switch to hammer mode, slow down, and make sure it's a masonry bit, not a wood bit.
- Anchor spins in the hole: the hole is oversized. Move the bracket slightly, or fill and re-drill.
- Wired doorbell won't power up: recheck the breaker, terminal screws and the chime connection, then compare your transformer label with the table above. Still stuck? Ring support or an electrician.
Bits & extras for the job
Tagged Amazon searches — no made-up prices or ratings.
1/4" (6 mm) masonry drill bit
The size Ring specifies for its wall anchors on stucco, brick or concrete. A carbide tip is what lets it bite into masonry.
Drill bit set (wood/metal)
Small twist or brad-point bits for pilot holes in wood trim and siding. Brad points start exactly on your mark.
Masonry bit set
If you'll hang more things on brick or stucco later (house numbers, hose reels), a set covers the common anchor sizes.
Phillips driver bits
Ring's mounting screws are Phillips head. A fresh #2 bit won't cam out and chew the screw.
Non-contact voltage tester
A quick way to double-check line-voltage (120 V) wiring is dead before you open the transformer or a junction box.
Small torpedo level
A crooked doorbell is the thing everyone notices. Check the bracket before you drill.
We may earn a commission when you buy through links on this page, at no extra cost to you. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases. It never changes what we recommend, and we never print prices — tap through for today's price. Affiliate disclosure.